Gabe Gordon’s SS25 Coming-of-Age Horror Fantasy

Mythological characters are expressed through Gordon’s vision of equestrian silhouettes.

Photography by Michael Hauptman

Taking place at the iconic New Design High School in the Lower East Side, Gabe Gordon’s Spring/Summer 2025 show HORSEPLAY put the audience into a fever dream inspired by an ‘80s horror fantasy. With hay lining the lunchroom’s runway, a horseback rider is thrown off his horse during the competition. When the rider is pulled out of the bushes by jocks, these Australian “Sharpies” haze him, turning the scene from a homoerotic delusion into a nightmare. He becomes possessed by darkness and kills his female rivals.

Mythological characters are expressed through Gordon’s vision of equestrian silhouettes. The horse girls were rugged and robust with bruises and hay in their hair, while the boys were tender and damaged. Womenswear knits and leathers are torn and distressed, and the jocks have an athletic motif of football attire and repurposed vintage sports tees.

Photography by Michael Hauptman

With the entire collection handmade in-house in Brooklyn, Gordon experiments with new techniques in addition to his classic knit techniques. HORSEPLAY expands his innovations with cable knits, colorful chunky varsity stripes, silk cut-and-sew pieces, upcycled tees, and antique lace. The show ended with a stunning leather dress handwoven with tassels draping down the bottom.

Although he made each piece, he didn’t do it alone. He collaborated with illustrator Brie Moreno on a print featured in the garments depicting the show’s narration. Artist Catarina Dobal worked with Gordon to create leather belts and a corset reminiscent of flesh. HORSEPLAY explores the balance of unity and pressure between traditional Americana aesthetics and the queer experience.